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17. The Blower Regulator is hiding under here. The two small bolts shown in the picture must be removed. One is close to
the end of my screwdriver, and the other identical bolt is shown about three inches forward (lower down).
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Next remove the two Torx screws shown here
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And the Torx screw here
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18. Use one hand to pull that curved center piece (the one you just removed all those *@#@$%& Torx fasters from) up.
With the other hand reach under it and grab the regulator. The regulator is an odd, triangular-shaped piece and is mounted
vertically. Rotate it counter-clockwise so that it is horizontal and you should be able to slide it out easily. Here it is.
Note the white knob, circled in the photo.
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It plugs into this hole.
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19. The regulator itself is held onto the heatsink with four screws. I removed them and was then able to get the cover off, exposing the connections.
With the ignition on, the red wire should always be hot (You did check the fuse first, right?) The yellow wire comes from the ACC control unit
on the dash. With the temperature wheel rotated all the way cold and the engine running, I had about 11 volts on the yellow wire. You should also have voltage
across red and blue. With the temperature wheel rotated all the way cold and the engine running, you should have 10-11 volts.
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It turned out that my regulator was bad. Good thing I tested it. I decided that because the blower motor's bearings were noisy I would also
replace it too. I don't want to have to do this job over again in the near future.
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20. Here is the new blower motor installed. The strap does not have the hold-down pressed into it
for the wiring, so I secured the wiring using two tie-wraps.
Note that the electrical connections are on the right, not the left as in the original.
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That is because it is the orientation and direction of rotation of the fan vanes that is important.
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From here it is a matter of putting things back together in the reverse order that they were taken apart. I hope this has helped. Good Luck and have fun.
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